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food alert — fortaleza do guincho: the sea is served | o mar à mesa


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One year ago, after a few months of anticipation, Portuguese-born Miguel Rocha Vieira presented his first menu as head-chef of Michelin starred Fortaleza do Guincho (on Lisbon coastline) to a selected group of food critics and writers. I was there and our impressions about his vision and contribution to a fine dining restaurant credited for its impeccable French cuisine were not consensual and, I’m sure now, premature. One year later, under the pretext of trying the forthcoming Autumn menu, I…

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